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The Garden FAQ Index |

How do I plant Perennials?

Select compact and dark green plants. Plants held in
warm shopping areas have long, pale green growth and are not
as suitable as seedlings or completely dormant plants.
Named varieties are best because their ornamental
characteristics are known. Plants grown from saved seed
may, or may not, be different than the plant the seed was
collected from. Many perennials do not produce true from
seed. Seed saved from garden phlox produces plants with
muddy pink flowers. Plants purchased from catalogs may
arrive as small divisions or root cuttings. These have a
better chance for survival if started in pots to be
transplanted later.

Perennials vary in size so set plants in the garden at
proper spacings. Over crowded plants are more subject to
disease problems.

Do not leave plants sitting around after buying them.
Plant them as soon as possible.

If grown in containers with individual compartments for
each plant, remove plants by gently flexing the sides.

Tear off the tops of peat pots, or bury it completely
at planting time. Any portion of a peat pot sticking out of
the soil acts like a wick and dries out the rest of the pot.
Roots have a hard time getting through the dry brittle pot.

Set plants at the same level they grew at in the flat
or container.

Once planted, water the newly set plants.

Perennials planted in poorly prepared soil may last only
one year. A good perennial site has excellent drainage and
protection from drying winds. Perennial bed preparation
should begin the year before the bed is to be planted.
Check the drainage and make improvements if needed by adding
organic matter. Deep soil preparation is important for
perennials because the plants will be in place for many
years.

Credit for information from the following sources: Denver Botanic Gardens, MSU Extension Office, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension