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Picking an Air compressors for testing steam engines?
Posted by Dave Cole (Daly City, Calif - USA) on February 13, 1999 at 10:43:08: 207.44.160.125 - 207.44.160.125
Am in the process of setting up a Gauge 1, scale 1:20.3, indoor live steam layout. I await my engine -- a Cricket steam motor -- and am slowly building the benchwork, etc.Since I'm starting this hobby from the ground up, I've had to assemble tools. In putting together the "backshop," I find that I may need two air compressors and was wondering if the experience on this list can tell me whether one would suffice. Not only do I believe I need a compressor for using an air brush (detailing rolling stock and the layout), but I have also read of using compressed air to test out steam engines while they aren't under fire. Can I use the same compressor for both activities? If I get an industrial compressor, will I need some sort of step-down attachment to be able to use it with an air brush? Would an air brush compressor provide enough compression to turn a small steam motor? Thanks.
Posted by Ron Powell (Sydney, NSW - Australia) on March 07, 1999 at 17:52:42: 203.127.220.235 - 203.127.220.235
Dave, I use a fairly basic Badger 1/3hp airbrush compressor that has no storage tank. A worn out truck tyre with tube and rim from a wrecker ( $5 at a wrecker) provides a storage tank. Take the valve out of the tube fitting and make up a 'T' piece from brass. The compressor is set to 50PSI cutoff (it shuts off at 50PSI and cuts back in at 30PSI) and pressurises the tube. I then run the airbrush off the other leg of 'T' using the tyre adapters you can get from most hobby shops. This gives a non pulsing air supply for painting. To run a loco I have and old air brush hose with one of the metal fittings removed. From this I have joined a piece of fish tank air line ( the clear tube)using a piece of brass tube as ajoiner. This clear tube is both large enough and flexible enough to push over most steam lines and fittings. If you can, try to run your engines by pressurising the boiler via a blow down or water feed line as this saves you from hooking up to the wrong line and having accidents like lubricator oil and waste water sprayed over you, Also be aware that often the problem is elswhere besides the piston assy itself.Hope this helps-Ron.
Posted by Lynn Ray (Gilmer, TX - USA) on February 15, 1999 at 17:11:58: glmr-pri3-a42.lcc.net - 207.70.156.170
I have a 1 hp Campbell-Hausfeld compressor with a 10 gallon tank I use for air brush painting and pneumatic tools (mainly air nailers) both. I can easily adjust the regulator to provide between about 15 psi to 100 psi depending on the use. An assortment of small pipe nipples, fittings, and male/female quick disconnect couplings will allow you to connect to about anything. Remember to use teflon tape or pipe dope on all threaded connections to minimize air loss. Good luck.
Posted by Todd Brody (Santa Ana, CA - USA) on February 13, 1999 at 16:46:32: irv-ca57-29.ix.netcom.com - 199.35.99.157
Most any air compresser that you buy will have an adjustable regulator so that you can control the pressure at the end of the line. If it doesn't have a regulator, these are readily available. Any large compressor will put out about 125 psi and even a smaller one (e.g., 3 hp) will go to at least 90 psi. The smaller one will not put out the air flow (CFM) of the larger one, but then you don't really need much in the way of airflow unless you want to power pneumatic tools. I imagine that any steam engine that you buy would not operate above about 60 psi, and probably a lot less. So any moderate compressor should do the job. When I airbrush, I don't connect the airbrush to the compressor but instead fill a large (probably about 3-5 gallons) freon canister and use this to run the airbrush. This way I don't have to hear the compressor work as I run the brush. But then, my compressor is regulated by blowing off excess pressure and runs continuously. Most compressors fill their tank to a set upper pressure and turn off until the pressure bleeds down to some minimum pressure. Hope this helps. Todd
Posted by Richard Lepkowski (Bridgport, Connecticut - USA) on February 17, 1999 at 14:16:35: 206.105.6.10 - 206.105.6.10
You said you use a freon tank. Did you know that the freon tank was never made to hold anything other than freon? They are not made of stainless steel and when you put compressed air in them water condenses on the inside and they start to rust from the inside out. One day this tank too will fail, there will be no visual warnings. Be very careful with this tank. I have seen the results of one exploding after only a year of doing the same thing you and many other are doing. Thank GOD no-one was hurt. I have herd stories about severe injuries obtained from such accidents.Richard Lepkowski
Posted by Bob Starr (Cedar Glen,, Ca. - USA) on February 14, 1999 at 13:53:05: 204.216.58.24 - 204.216.58.24
My compressor of choice for running small steam engines is my air brush compressor. I find that when I test an engine on air I want it to run slow. Also on my large compressor I usually have so much back pressure the hose pops off whatever temporary attachment that I have made. I think I read somewhere that since the Cricket has teflon in it that it won't run on air because it takes the steam to seal the piston.
Posted by Ed Buscall (Brentwood Bay, BC - Canada) on April 06, 1999 at 17:19:56: 24.65.15.166.bc.wave.home.com - 24.65.15.166
I have a very small modelling compressor (probably 1/10 h.p.) which wanders all over the bench. A friend has just given me a single cylinder compressor (produces about 3 C.F.M. at 90 PSI) together with a 1 h.p. motor and a pressure switch. I have purchased a 10 gallon tank.What I am looking for is an exploded type parts drawing that shows how the physical connections are made between the compressor/pressure switch/tank etc etc, so that I can go out and get the necessary parts (such as a pressure controller valve) and assemble everything into a full blown workshop compressor. Sears has a parts page with 4 million parts and thousands of drawings but they have only done their appliances and none of their tools. Does anyone have any idea of a web site I could go to to get the drawings/information I need. Many thanks.
Posted by D.J.KIRKLAND (JACKSONVILLE, FLA - USA) on April 06, 1999 at 18:42:32: atl-qbu-zpf-vty238.as.wcom.net - 216.192.221.238
ED My first compressor was a complete rebuild too. There is a company here in the States ,W.W.GRANGER,their catalog has diagrams on how to rebuild things ,such as air compressors,they show you what you need, then hope you buy the parts from them.They could on the internet ,I haven"t checked. They are a wholsale outfit,you'll need to buy thru a company.The Mouth of The South D.J.Kirkland
Posted by D.J.Kirkland (JACKSONVILLE, FLA - USA) on April 06, 1999 at 18:48:58: atl-qbu-zpf-vty238.as.wcom.net - 216.192.221.238
BOB He will need a check valve going into the tank , and some kind of a pressure relief system ,so the motor won't start under a pressure load,it will burn the motor up "I know' D.J.KIRKLAND
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